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King Family Vineyards, Tarara Winery, VaWine, Virginia, Virginia is Virginia, Virginia Tourism, Virginia Travel, Virginia Wine
It happened again. The third time in as many months. A well intentioned, yet misinformed tasting room staff member compared Virginia’s climate to the climate of another, more notable region in a misguided attempt to link the Virginian wine she was pouring to this more prominent region.
“This is our Cabernet Franc,” says the pleasant young lady from behind the tasting room bar of a Northern, Virginia winery as she pours a taste of their garnet colored Cab Franc in to my glass. After describing all of the aromas and flavors I should detect and listing the various medals this particular wine has garnered, she went on to tell me that, “Cab Franc grows really well here in Virginia and at our vineyard because the climate here is very similar to the Loire Valley where Cabernet Franc is from.”
I cringe every time I hear winery staff or other industry folks compare Virginia’s climate or terroir (ah that elusive terroir) to that of more notable regions like the Loire, Condrieu, California, or Italy. Although these silly comparisons are not rampant throughout the entire Virginia wine industry, the the frequency of occurrence is increasing, especially in the last few months.
Given the tasting room employee’s enthusiasm for the wines she was pouring, I didn’t have the heart to tell her that Cabernet Franc does not grow well in Virginia or that particular vineyard ‘because the climate here is very similar to the Loire Valley.’
In terms of climate, Virginia is not like Chinon, not like Vouvray, not like Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine, not like Anjou or any other region in the Loire (all ~ 500 east-west km of it).
“Saying that we [Virginia] are like the loire valley makes me laugh,” says Matthieu Finot, native Frenchman and winemaker at King Family Vineyards in Charlottesville. “Before coming to Virginia, I worked in a lot of different places; Burgundy, Rhone, Provence, Jura, St. Emilion, Friuli, and South Africa and I have to say that Virginia’s climate is quite unique.”
I have heard Virginia compared to other more notable regions in France, California and Italy on a number of occasions, but the myth about ‘Virginia’s climate being just like the Loire’ is the most common comparison that I hear.
A comparison of the most basic climate data — like average monthly rainfall and average high and low temperatures — provides a reasonable basis for burying the Virginia’s climate is just like the Loire Valley’s (or any other region’s) climate myth.
(Ed. Note: At the risk of stating the obvious, I feel compelled to note that I am not a climatologist, meteorologist, or viticulturist and concede that comparing average high and low temperatures, rainfall amounts, and a broad climate categorization does not provide an absolute perfect way to demonstrate differences in climate in the context of viticulture. There is no one perfect method to compare the climates of two regions however, for the purposes of this comparative exercise, the table above does provide a basic illustration of the climate differences between Virginia and France’s Loire Valley. If you have knowledge of a proven, precise method to measure climate differences, I welcome the sharing of that precise method.)
The lower humidity and rainfall amounts and much cooler average low temperatures in regions like France’s Loire Valley provide a significant (and important) contrast to Virginia’s climate.
The Köppen climate classification system — arguably the most widely used climate classification system — supports the same conclusion that Virginia’s climate is not like that of other regions like the Loire Valleyor California or other notable regions. Under the Köppen system, Virginia is classified as a humid subtropical climate while the Loire (at Saint-Cyr-sur-Loire) is classified as an Oceanic climate (this changes slightly given the length of the Loire region).
When other factors like elevation, soils, latitude and especially humidity are considered, it’s even clearer that Virginia is not like the Loire, the Rhone, California or too many other more notable regions.
Comparing Virginia to more acclaimed regions is not really about climate. Instead, it’s about marketing. This sort of silly reputation tapping is nothing more than a feeble attempt to piggyback on the status of a more notable region with the hope of improving the perception of a particular winery or wine.
“Virginia has a wild mixture of soils from impenetrable loam clay, to limestone (also normally combined with clay), to granite and sand,” says Jordan Harris, winemaker and General Manager of Tarara Winery in Loudoun County. “The only other wine regions that have some of these same mixtures in similar proportions that I know of would be the Niagara-on-the-Lake region in Canada and the Coonawarra region in South Australia, yet I never hear these places mentioned as comparisons because comparing Virginia to these regions isn’t a help for marketing.”
I find it hard to believe that (Virginia) wine consumers would place a higher value on a wine compared to a more notable region but, apparently, some consumers do according to the findings of a 2012 research experiment reported in a Working Paper of the American Association of Wine Economists [1]. The experiment, which included two Virginian wines (Barboursville Vineyards 2009 Viognier and Veramar Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay), found that references to well-established regions in France did resonate with the 263 subjects that participated in the study.
Regardless of the results of this limited study I hold the belief that Virginia does not need to piggyback on the reputation of more acclaimed regions to improve perception or sell wine. Good wine sells wine. Authenticity sells wine.
As the ‘support local’ movement continues to strengthen, I believe consumers will place more value on local goods like Virginian wine.
‘Embrace Virginia’s uniqueness!’ ~ Oz Clarke, Virginia Wine Summit, 2013
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1. Rickard, B., J. McCluskey, and R. Patterson. 2012. “Reputation Tapping.” AAWE Working Paper 119. Available at: http://www.wine-economics.org/aawe/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/AAWE_WP119.pdf
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Drink What YOU Like 
Having worked in Virginia for half of my over 30-year career, I believe I know a little something about Virginia; it’s terroir, etc. It is an extremely difficult place to make high-quality, world-class wines. It can be done, however. But most wines from Virginia are pleasant, drinkable wines. Considering that almost all of the wine in Virginia is sold direct, pleasant and drinkable is enough in most cases. In fact, because so much wine is sold DTC, the incentives to make world-class wine aren’t there for a lot of wineries, and really, that’s the case for most wineries around the world. Wineries are businesses, too (at least I think so).
If the Commonwealth wants to really get onto the world stage there has to be a rededication to growing grapes. For high quality. Economically sound. And in a much, much larger quantity.
Alan! Hey thanks for stopping by to comment – appreciate your insights. You may an interesting point about “pleasant and drinkable” being enough in most cases. I wonder if many of your peers realize that their wines are “pleasant and drinkable” (which I agree with you about!)? I suspect some that are making the pleasant and drinkable may believe the wines are more than that.
Absolutely agree with you about the Commonwealth needed to rededicate to planting and growing grapes! A few wineries are planting regularly but clearly but no where near the acres needed (as an industry) to take that next big step. Cheers!
Nice article Frank. This is not only common in Virginia alot of small regions make comparisons. The report from AAWE makes a good point too. If comparing Virginia to older regions with more stature makes a difference with consumers why not do that to raise the stature of Virginia? Might make business sense for wineries.
Thanks, Jeff! I am only familiar with comparisons happening here but I’m sure other regions make similar comparisons. ‘The’ problem with comparing Virginia with other regions like the Loire, Rhone, California, etc. is — it’s NOT true! I guess a winery could say a number of things to get people to buy their wine but comparing to other regions is not the truthful way.
And, as an advocate for and serious consumer of Virginian wines, I want authenticity. I buy a Virginia Cab Franc because I want a ‘Virginia Cab Franc.’ I can’t recall ever purchasing a Virginia Cab Franc because it’s like a CF from Chinon. If I wanted a Chinon, I would buy a Chinon.
Hoping a few winemakers will weigh in here with their opinions on comparing to other regions and the ethics of making these false comparisons. Cheers!
I also worked on Long Island a long, long time ago. And we were so excited when someone from Newsday or The Times compared LI Wines to Napa. Everyone, Napa is Napa. Be the best where you are!
So true, Frank.
Denisse and I are novice wine drinkers getting to know the Virginia scene. We have also heard these comparisons from time to time. We pretty much let the comment roll by without responding as we realize what they are attempting to do.
What we don’t understand is how that association is supposed to impress us when we’re standing right there in their tasting room. Like you said, “Good wine sells wine”. If we made the trip out to your tasting room, I’m going to taste the wine right here and now. The association is not going to affect my palate.
The comparisons are actually a negative for us. When we want wine from another region it’s easily accessible. If we are standing in a Virginia tasting room, we are much more interested in the uniqueness of Virginia wine.
Jay
Jay! Appreciate your thoughts on this subject. It is interesting how many people are hearing this same ‘Virginia is like xyz region’ more and more. I’m not sure the reason behind this increase in frequency as of late. Agree with you – if I’m ‘in’ a Virginia tasting room, it’s to learn, taste and buy ‘Virginian’ wine. The good news is I believe only a small handful of wineries are engaging in this silliness.
All the best!
Hi Frank and friends!
While the Loire Valley comparison was obviously wrong, I’d encourage you to rethink the concept of comparing VA to other wine regions. It’s an educational tool. Many serious wine drinkers have a stockpile of knowledge to draw upon to help them evaluate a wine and to place it in some sort of geographical position, not necesarily hierarchical position.
It’s a reality that a Super Tuscan is not a Bordeaux or a California Cab, but you CAN compare the characteristics inherent in each. Or, you can point out the rarity of, say Bernkasteler Doktor by comparing it to a grand cru Burgundy, ie 5 acres of land, maybe.
Knowing that Tannat from south of France is laid down for 5 years before being released, but that VA Tannat is smoother and more user-friendly isn’t placing a value judgment on either wine, it’s an informational tool that helps consumers make choices.
When done with the aim of educating a consumer, not in the defensive “we’re just as good as…” placing VA wines within the larger context of international winemaking can only help in the long run.
Best,
Mary Ann
csw (smarty pants certification from the Society of Wine Educators)
Hi, Mary Ann! Thanks for stopping by and joining the discussion. Appreciate you sharing your insights on this subject.
I agree that there may be value in comparing ‘characteristics’ of Virginian wine to wines made from the same grape from other regions. I make these types of characteristic comparisons with some frequency — Ankida Ridge’s Chardonnay is ‘very Burgundian’ or the black tea flavors of the 2011 Cabernet Franc from Annefield Vineyards is very similar to the classic black tea flavors I tend to pick up in Cab Francs from Saumur-Champigny. Comparing characteristics of Virginian wine to those wines from other regions is why I enjoy participating in Va-versus-other region blind tastings – to compare the quality of ‘characteristics’ of the wines to other regions.
However, there is a BIG difference in comparing the ‘characteristics’ on a Virginian wine (i.e. – those black tea flavors) to comparing Virginia (climate, terroir) to other regions. Big difference IMO.
While, some Virginia Cab Francs may have some characteristics of those from Saumur-Champigny (maybe my favorite region), Virginia is NOT like Saumur-Champigny.
Thanks again for your ‘CSW smarty pants’ 🙂 thoughts here. (I’ve ticked away a couple clicks of the ‘ol WSET but not sure I’ll do too many more certs unless it’s the MW [ok, totally kidding about the MW]).
Hope to get a group together some time soon in Charlottesville for round 2 of the Cabernet Franc blind tasting. Cheers!
Well, I’m not a climatologist (nor do I play one on TV), but: should we come up with a valid comparison? ie Virginia is like {where?}
I was gonna rant about how hard it is to train tr staff, but the Chinon misinformation obviously came from above. So: let’s set it straight. Virginia is like…where?????
Maybe Bruce Zoecklein knows?
Me, I’m thinking about going for WSET Diploma level 2, so I can be the smartiest smarty pants VA winery gm in the commonwealth…Costs so much tho!
Haha. I’m not a Climatologist either but I do try to play one online. 🙂 But seriously, I don’t think Virginia needs a comparison region. That’s just my opinion.
If we are determined to compare Virginia to a more notable region, Piedmont may be the closest in terms of high/low average temperatures, humidity and average rain. There are of course ‘some’ similarities to Bordeaux (I’ll defer to those that know BDX much better than I do… Jim Law comes to mind, Dr. Zoecklein… and Allan Liska of cellar blog is a frequent BDX visitor).
Note, Virginia does have something in common with Burgundy — unpredictability of weather.
You are spot on — the ‘we are like the Loire’ is something that this particular tasting room staffer likely heard someone (Management) say and she was just repeating.
It’s really easy to factually and quantitatively compare different regions as to climate, soil, etc. But, really, what is the point? If you’re in Virginia, make the best Virginia wine. Similarities? To Burgundy? Almost none. To Bordeaux? Almost none. To Loire? Almost none. Back in the mid-1990’s I did an extensive study of major wine growing areas similar to Virginia and found few. One of the closest was central Spain, except Virginia is much more humid. I’d say the closest would be north-central China. Remember, Virginia has a hot, continental climate with a lot of humidity. And cold, sometimes killing winters.
The major problem is that wines are referential. That is, we need to have a reference point to understand a “new” wine. “Oh, this Chardonnay is smilar to that Burgundy I had last week,” etc. The job of the winemaker is make their wine the reference point that others point to. That’s why Virginia Viogniers and Nortons are important.
If one wants to compare Burgundy and Virginia, don’t forget Michael Shaps, who manages his Maison Shaps label in Meursault in Burgundy while running Virginia Wineworks outside of Charlottesville.
When we started on this adventure we did look around the world to see which climate we might be close to in order to decide which grapes we might grow, but we soon learned that this isn’t the right question. The decision of what to grow is made simple by the realities of our climate, because the best grapes to grow in Virginia are those with thick skins and loose clusters. Thick-skinned berries resist rot, and the the loose clusters allow air circulation, which aids in the control of disease.
Hence the success of Viognier and Cabernet Franc in Virginia, which exhibit those characteristics. Cabernet Sauvignon does as well, but it is difficult to ripen fully (just like in many other regions). Vermentino also has thick-skinned berries and loose clusters, and I’m willing to predict that more and more growers will take a look at it as Barboursville’s planting comes into full production and the variety becomes better known (we hope to have our first varietal Vermentino bottling this year; our vines were planted in 2011).
Ultimately I think Virginia will be known for wines made with fruit that grows well here, and the grower needs to take this this knowledge to heart. I suspect many grow grapes for the wines they enjoy, like Riesling or Gewertztraminer or Pinot Noir, ignoring advice that the variety is not suited to the climate, unless they have a site that can grow it — and I’m thinking of Ankida Ridge’s success with Pinot Noir, which can be attributed to their high elevation at 1,800 feet above sea level.
Alan Kinne is so right about a wine becoming THE reference point for understanding a wine. Very well said.
Sorry I am so late to coming and reading this conversation. As stated above, there is no problem expressing that a wine has comparable attributes to traditional characters from a more known wine or region. That does not make that wine compared or the terroir compared to the region.
I think it is important to also point out that we can’t compare Virginia to another area because places in Virginia should not even be compared. That is like saying Napa is similar to Paso Robles in that they are Californian. The terroir even at our site has wild variations block to block so to compare to a region makes no sense. We have some blocks that are limestone rich with clay like say the Cote d’Or. Doesn’t make it a worthy comparison. Other blocks are sandier as we get closer to the Potomac with better drainage. We have some blocks that are rockier than others. Our property is rolling so we have strong variation in sun exposure. There are many occasions I can travel our property and get 5-6 degree differences within our site. Some areas are windier than others minimizing pressure and giving more of an ability to hang longer. If this is all on one site, how can I compare to a different region. If this is all on one site there is no way we could even be the same as the Northern Neck, Monticello or even the opposite side of the Catoctins still in Loudoun. Might we have some wines with similar attributes, sure, but there are far more differences.
Something that is also often forgotten in trying to compare us is angle of the sun. We are closer to the equator than many of the regions often compared. That means if you are on a flatter site the sun is going to have a harder time directly hitting the fruiting zone on most training systems. There are simply too many variables to make comparisons. It is simply not truthful marketing as Frank states. It also makes you only potentially the second best at what you do from the start anyway. Instead of saying we are like somewhere, understand your own site and educate in the tasting room on how that terroir affects what is in your bottle. Explain why your wine tastes great based on how the fruit got to taste that way from your slope, temperature, soil, etc. That makes each place unique and have a strong selling point. It also makes you the best at YOUR site (hopefully).
Interesting article and some really good responses, nice blog Frank. In my opinion Virginia’s climate varies greatly with elevations ranging from sea level to over 5000 feet, but it is generally regarded as a mild climate compared to other parts of the Continental US. I agree in principle that one cannot classify Virginia’s climate easily, nor is it similar to any specific climate of any major producing wine region, other than maybe South Australia [which I think was mentioned].
If we are talking macro climate, then we have to consider the differences in the meso-climate and micro-climate as well. Wines from Northern Virginia share some commonalities with those from Central Virginia, but in my mind display way more differences attributable to these above mentioned factors.
Instead of maybe marketing Virginia wines by comparing ourselves to more famous wine growing regions, maybe the more pragmatic approach is to say we look to those areas for help in improving our wines. There is more to learn from European viticultural practices and wine-making than California. We get major vintage variations and most often our fruit is not as ripe as us winemakers would like. Can we learn more from Bordeaux and the Loire versus Napa Valley. Can their wines be guidelines or a resource of how to work with greener fruit, higher acidity and lower alcohols?
Yes Virginia needs to be unique and stand out as a quality producer of wine, for whatever reason. In my opinion even producers in Virginia are at odds over what characteristics in a wine point out that it is Virginia. Viognier, the state grape is made in so many variations that one cannot possible argue that one style is uniquely Virginian versus another. We definitely want to showcase the potential of Virginia Viognier, but we look to Condrieu as a bench mark and guideline. Should that be marketed and used as a sale tool, No but it holds value to a winemaker who is exploring all possibilities.
I was very serious about trying to make reference point wines. It has happened: the 1993 Horton Viognier swept across the nation and became THE viognier for several years. You can ask any producer of Viognier that has been making it for the past 20 years and everyone remembers that wine. So, it is possible to make such wines in Virginia and they will raise the bar for those pleasant and drinkable wines.
I know this is what Jordan is striving for at Tarara.
To Jordan’s points, yes, the general statement of “Virginia wine” is very misleading. Napa wine, Sonoma wine, Lodi, Monterey. All in California, all very different.
Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Carneros. All in Napa, all very different. Really, how similar are Loudoun and Charlottesville?
Hi Frank,
Excellent post and interesting points.
I just wanted to quickly add, much like Mary Ann mentions, I don’t think the comparisons are harmful when they are made with the goal of educating (vs as a sales tactic). We are often asked in the tasting room to compare our climate, soils etc. to those of more familiar regions. People want to know why this grape grows better here than that one, or why we planted certain varietals on certain sites in the vineyard, or why a certain wine we make is more “European” in style than “Californian” in style, etc. So, I think in that instance, making the comparisons (while making it clear there are general similarities and differences with other regions, not that we are exactly like another region) is interesting and helpful for the customer who is trying to learn more about Virginia wine or wine and wine making in general :).
As an aside, I am very cautious about using terms like “European” or “Californian” in style. In my mind, those are code words for lower alcohol, acidic wines vs. higher alcohol, higher pH wines. But, as we have discussed, people do want to have some sort of reference to compare the wine they are tasting with one that they already know.