I worked in Washington, DC this week and had the occassion to meet up with a few colleagues at Eat Bar in Arlington, VA. To get the evening started I decided to continue my ‘random trend’ of rampant Beaujolais drinking. Since there were only four Beaujolais’ on the menu I went with the most notable, Marcel Lapierre from the Morgon, one of the ten ‘crus’ in Beaujolais and one of the notable producers of the region. (Here’s an interesting excellent article that appeared at the Saveur website which features Mr. Lapierre: http://www.saveur.com/article/wine/The-New-Beaujolais.)
A quick snipet from the article: Of course, his wines have varied in quality from year to year. Natural winemaking can be something of a roller coaster-but Lapierre has learned to enjoy the giddy thrills it entails. “It’s a great release,” he told me in Villié-Morgon over a plate of homemade sausages and a glass of his own red. “Every vigneron wants to work like this in his heart of hearts. But you have to be brave, and it can be expensive. Modern enologists are against the whole thing because it’s risky, but for me it’s the most natural way of doing things. You just have to spend a lot of time understanding the chemistry of what goes on.”
Marcel Lapierre, Morgon 2005 – $34/bottle – Imported by Kermit Lynch (verynice). Bright reddish plum color. Lively nose filled with cinnamon, strawberry, cherry and vanilla. Well balanced with more cinnamon and plum in the mouth. For some unknown reason, I have consumed a lot of Beaujolais lately – most of which I haven’t written about here – and have noticed a considerable difference in quality both vertically and horizontally within the Morgon. I would have liked to have had the 2006 of this wine as well just to compare the two.